Saturday morning, 9AM, it’s a little above 40 degrees. Between three and four hundred riders gather downtown, near the new American Tobacco complex. As the countdown to the start begins, all bikes are facing the same direction. Riders are ogling each others’ bikes and dancing little jigs to stay warm. Bright jackets and black tights are the costumes de jure.
Jack’s here to take pictures, I’m here to take sounds. Our ride will begin as soon as the Halloween Hundred is underway. 
The horn sounds, the pedalers pedal out, and I catch up with the organizers. Roxanne Hall, whom I originally met on the Solstice Ride, tells me Habitat preregistered more than 360 riders and another hundred or so walked on.
I meet the beneficiary of all this — a shy man in his forties. His house will be built with the funds raised by the Halloween Hundred. He remembers when he used to ride a bike as a kid, but doesn’t think he’s ridden one since then. The idea of riding 30 or 60 miles seems foreign to him. We’re interrupted when a quilt hanging from a temporary stand blows over, and we take a moment to pick it up out of the street.
Jack returns from his brief sprint with the peloton, and he and I head to the nearest cafe, Blue Coffee which… is closed on the weekends.
Amelia Cafe is a quiet, intimately lit upscale cafe tucked away in the Brightleaf complex. It’s been open only four months, and the owner says business is picking up now that people know it’s here. Power outlets are accessible along the walls and the interior columns, and the owner says that wireless Internet access is available.
Jack and I opt for the outdoor seating, which is at circular tables with canvas umbrellas.
“Good prices on the sweets,” Jack says. The owner says all of the pastries are made in house, but not a single one is vegan. Trains pass by just behind Brightleaf, and the rumble and whistle down out our conversation for a few seconds.
Amelia’s espresso is smooth with no trace of bitterness. It’s got a nice crème on top and is just the right temperature. It’s the best espresso we’ll have all day.
Fowler’s while having the most grainy, most bitter espresso, has a unique outdoor seating area. Tables are set up under a huge overhang which means you’ll always be in shade. The deck is elevated; we’re at least two floors up from the parking lot below, and there’s even a 3rd floor of outdoor seating. From our table, we have a view of Main St and the same railroad tracks that run behind Brightleaf. Ceiling fans are scattered overhead. The décor is a mix of refurbished steel and wood reminiscent of the building’s industrial past.
The cafe had the added bonus of a barista who could speak bike. She shows up for her shift and asks about the “hot Fuji” chained up to the bike rack. *score* Jack was miffed that his Motobecane drew no similar comments. I keep telling him that if only he’d convert it to a single speed…
We ride on in search of a better drink. The morning is still brisk and traffic is light. Caffeine is beginning to sheath and protect the muscles.
On the way from Fowler’s to Bean Traders, we’re passed by a blue VW with a fancy road bike on the back. The VW is parked on 9th Street when get there, and we stand in line with the driver who’s just finished the 50k of the Halloween Hundred. He tells us about his ride while we tell him about ours.
Bean Traders’ espresso is middle of the road. It was smooth (not bitter) and had a nice flavor to it. But the paper cups are not only wasteful, they don’t insulate the drink very well and ruin the experience of sipping.
Our first espresso ride comes to an end, but we agree that we ought to do this again. There are a lot of cafes in Durham, and many miles can be ridden in between them.
*In Bean Traders’ defense, I will say that their baristas all seem to be very knowledgeable and talented and their beans are usually very good — which is why it’s my usual stop for morning coffee. I just wish they’d stop using disposable cups.